Ao Dai Vietnam

Ao Dai, Vietnam

Produced by miRRa

Edited by Vince Dilley

Every country on the planet earth has its own quintessential style of living, ranging from their tradition, foods, arts, clothes, etc. Whereas their quintessential-ness is formed by all of the histories and the changes that they have experienced from one generation to another.

When The Eye Traveled to Ho Chi Minh capital city of South Vietnam, for a short period , one of the things that attracted me is their quintessential style of fashion: the Ao Dai style.

The national costume of Vietnam, ‘Ao Dai’ is the symbol of Vietnam that holds the soul of Vietnamese people and also to show the national pride. Such symbolism has been rooted from Vietnam's history and over time, the dress along with what it represents have transcended all Vietnamese, from all walks of life and continued to embrace it. ‘Ao’ means ‘shirt’ ; ‘Dai’ means ‘long’. It is a tight fitting silk tunic worn over trousers. This traditional dress symbolizes beauty, elegance, and Vietnamese identity.

The ‘Ao Dai’ provides a striking example of how the Vietnamese have responded to both Chinese and French colonization by adopting elements of foreign cultures and modifying them to be uniquely Vietnamese. The tradition of clothing holds a long history dated back to 1744, when Chinese Imperial Courts dictated what women should wear in Southern Vietnam in the early 1700s, during the reign of Nguyen Puc Koat, a Lord who ruled over this part of the country. Lord Nguyen had an array of courtier’s aides who accompanied members of the nobility to formal events. To set these stewards apart, Lord Nguyen asked they to wore a long gown over trousers. Although this is considered to be the genesis of the original Ao Dai, it was inspired by outfits worn by the people of ‘Champa’ an Indo-Chinese Kingdom, which lasted from the 2nd to the 17th century in what is now South Vietnam. The ‘Champa’ women wore long colourful dresses made from chiffon. By modelling the Ao Dai on this garment, Lord Nguyen reputedly was attempting to win over the Champa people. The word Ao Dai was originally applied to the outfit worn at the court of the Nguyen Lords in the 18th century to distinguish them from other courtiers.

The dress itself had several versions back then and it was not only the Ao Dai continued in its uncomplimentary form until the 1930s. It was then that one of the most instantly recognizable Vietnamese garments in the world was born with the input of Vietnamese artist who had trained in France. Led by a man named Nguyen Cat Tuong, this group came up with the idea for a new sleeker Ao Dai. This form fitting version was intended to highlight the feminine shape instead of concealing it, and, rather than being utilitarian, it was sensual and eye catching. When the dress appeared it was similar to today’s Ao Dai's. Ao Dai has said to be an outfit which covers everything, but hides nothing because even though it covers most parts of the body, it is still a sensual outfit with its tight fit and long slit up the sides. Inherently, Ao Dai is the symbol of charm and luxury of Vietnamese women. Although a large number of new fashion trends have continuously been introducing into Vietnam, Ao Dai always existed through the years and kept its paramount importance to convey Vietnamese cultural values to international friends. This fresh Ao Dai was burned into the national consciousness when it started being regularly worn by Nam Phuong, the Last Empress of Vietnam. The sight of Nam Phuong looking resplendent in Ao Dai dresses from the late 1930s onwards started a fashion craze. This garment quickly came to embody class and sophistication for Vietnamese women.

The dress was further legitimized in the 1950s and the 1960s when political figures began wearing it in public. The First Lady of South Vietnam, Tran Le Xuan, was a famous fan of the outfit and started donning delicate Ao Dai formal engagements across those two decades. During some of the most important moments in recent Vietnamese history, this famous garment played a silent but unmistakable role. It is in many ways part of the fabric of the Nation. Designers constantly experiment with the fashion fusing different materials injecting newer looks into the design, but the totally Ao Dai remained an undying beauty and symbol of a strong and colorful culture.

The timeless beauty of Ao Dai has never ceased to inspire fashion designers in Vietnam to honor the grace and elegance of Vietnamese culture. Throughout the history Vietnamese has undergone various modernization to have a one of a kind look like today and suit different tastes of Vietnamese people in each era. Ao Dai is being redesigned constantly to catch up with the latest trends and popular demands. A lot of designers have been recreating and breathing in new styles and forms into the costume. Nevertheless, ‘Ao Dai’ still retains its distinctive Vietnamese identity. With the development of the fashion industry, the modern Ao Dai Vietnam can be made from a diversity of materials and mixed with jeans or loose silk pants. Choosing a suitable material for your Ao Dai is important, because Ao Dai is often designed to tone up your body curves.

I saw Vietnam women wearing Ao Dai with a different style. There are remains classical also still wears a Vietnam hat, too...and another wearing it and style it into a modern type along with long pants and wedges.

To feel this Ao Dai on my person, I made myself an Ao Dai outfit to wear while watching an Ao Dai Show,in Ho Chi Minh.

I also made some time to visit the 'Ao Dai Exhibition' at Saigon House 2nd floor, 77 Nguyen Hue, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam. There were dozens of Ao Dai outfits on display, each with its own different designs, colors, and fabrics.

The Eye Continues to Travel…

ASEAN Nation Flowers

From 2016 – original artifacts

Welcome to the 20th anniversary of Vietnam joining ASEAN (1995-2015), painter Si Hoang has designed dresses collection ASEAN from the idea of bringing the beauty of the 10 nationals national flower dresses up deviant Vietnam. lotus- national flower of Vietnam.

Children's Ao Dai

Since 1997, Ho Chi Minh City has organised the "Green Painting" movement. attracting the participation of millions of children. In 2009, artist-designer Si Hoang made his mark by encouraging children to paint their pictures on the Ao Dai, to promote the love for Ao Dai through an active, self conscious activity, to make Ao Dai become the costume of choice for future generations. these Ao Dai with fun patterns, reflecting innocent young souls has become a hallmark of Ao Dai for children.

Princes Long Robes

Artisan Vu Van Gioi and eight embroiderers implemented from July 1998, completed in December 1999. Restored from the original pattern of Bao Dai King at Hue Museum of Royal.

Vietnamese Korean Ao Dai

To combine the cultures of Vietnam and Korea , designers have intricately added the traditional Hanbok collar and the cherry blossom image to the Ao Dai. With this design , Korean women can perceive Ao Dai as a modern outfit, beautiful and convenient.

Vietnamese Filipino Ao Dai

The Filipino Terno traditional clothing was the source of inspiration for this Ao Dai. Hard fabric, puffed sleeves and beaded necklaces emphasized the luxurious elegance of this special outfit.

Vietnamese Chinese Ao Dai

From the generous seam of the Cheongsam, the Ao Dai has become a modern, splendid and distinctive evening gown.

The Brocade of Ao Dai

From 1990

Designer Dang Thi Minh Hanh (born 1961) made Vietnamese brocade become more popular in the world through her Ao Dai collections. Vietnamese brocade is a type of hand woven cloth with embroidered motifs based on traditional methods of the ethnic minorities. Dang Thi Minh Hanh has contributed to invigorate the traditional Ao Dai into a glorious and glamorous style.

The Hippy Ao Dai

From 1968

At the end of the 1960s , the Ao Dai was influenced by hippies cultural trends and fashions originated from America reflecting the philosophy of "live fast, die young". The hippy Ao Dai (mini) appeared and immediately became a fashion trend with light materials, vivid colours, vignettes of plants, flowers and geometric shapes. The bodies was narrowly sewn and shortened to the knees, with non tight waist, low collar and sweeping long trousers that flared to 60 cm, or even with dress trousers. This Ao Dai style was popular until the mid 1990s.

The Boat Neck Ao dai

From 1958

In 1958, the Boat Neck Ao Dai created by director Thai Thuc Nha shocked the fashion world, unique and extraordinary, it still remains popular in the present day. When wearing this Ao Dai, the beautiful neck and shoulders of women are gracefully complimented. Additionally, it is also suitable ffor the tropical weather of South Vietnam.

The Raglan Sleeve Ao Dai

From 1958

From around 1957, Ao dai became more fashionable among the elite of society. It was at this time that Do Thanh started thinking of applying the setern “raglan” cut to the shoulder seam in his Ao dai designs, reducing wrinkling at the shoulders. Do Thanh (1918 – 1970), more commonly known as Dung, was born in Chau Sa village, Quang Ngai province. He opened a tailor shop named “Dung Dakao” in 1948, at 146 – 148 Dinh Tien Hoang, next to the Dakao market. He also produced two successful fashion shows, one in 1958 at the Grand Monde Theatre and one in 1959 at the Arc en Ciel Theatre. The innovative contribution of Do Thanh in upgrading Ao dai design is well respected and honored.

High Collar Ao Dai

From 1950

In the 1950s – 1960s, bras became more popular thus Ao dai was sewn with tight waist, and more skin tight. The back of Ao dai was wider than the front side, especially the hip part. This Ao dai had distinctly high collar, while the lower fringe was cut straight horizontally and close to the ankle. This Ao dai expresses perfectly the body shape of the one who wears them.

The Lemur Ao Dai

From 1934

Innovated by the Artist Nguyen Cat Tuong (1912-1946) also known as Lemur Cat Tuong. He graduated from Dong Duong Arts College (1933) and was the dedsigner behind the ground breaking article "Beauty for Ladies" in the Phong Hou Mua Xuan newspaper (issue 85; 02 February 1934). This article revolutionized Vietnamese women's fashion with its innovative and wildly popular designs. Most notable were the modern Ao Dai's, starting with the flare sleeved, peter pan collared, colourful and tight waisted ao dai with white pants which immediately made waves all over the country. In the following years, he continuously introduced fresh designs that earned great attention from the mass, especially the elites. with his contributions, Lemur cat Tuong became an honoured figure not not only in Vietnam but also in Japan and elsewhere.

Ao dai during the Nguyen Dynasty 19th Century

The costumes of the Nguyen were tightly regulated like previous dynasties and put in the management of the Ministry of Rites. Ao dai is embroidered or woven with decorative patterns of phoenixes, bats, the sun, calabash, fruits, the eights weapons and five colours..with an inner silk lining. In fall and winter they used ‘gam’ fabric and in Spring – Summer ‘sa’ and ‘van’ fabrics. Because the dyed colours can easily fade, these Ao dai were not washed but only exposed under the sun several times a year and perfumed by incense in wooden caskets. There is always a white tunic underneath to be easily washed. Trousers are fairly widely sewn, with low stitch and two sides sewn with three folds to make that wider when walking.

The Five Sections Ao Dai

Circa 1884

Five section Ao dai includes two cloths sewn together into a discrect front part, with a sub-part in the lower right. Four outer parts stand for our mother and father and our lover’s parents. The fifth one represents the person who wears Ao dai. This Ao dai always has five buttons representing the philosophy : kindness, Decorum, Uprightness, Wisdom, Faithfulness. There are two kinds of Five sections Ao dai, the narrow sleeved and the wide sleeved. In the North Vietnam in the 1910s – 1920s, women like to add a 3cm button on the right of the neck and buttoning deviatedly there. This would make the look more charming and show the necklaces inside.

The Four Section AO DAI

Developed In the 17th Century, Circa 1645

The four section Ao dai has a flowing brown outer tunic, without buttons, reaching almost to the floor or neatly tightened when working on the farm or market. At this time, the woven fabric had a width of around 35-40cm. both front side ad back side had two sections each, the 2 front sections open for flexibility and the 2 back sections sewn together, therefore it became known as the Four section Ao dai. Underneath is a long skirt and dark colour blouse for the older women and white or dark pink blouse for young girls. Apart from the blouse , the ao dai is accesorized with a green/blue long silk sash tied at the waist and a black waistband. Nowadays, the Four section Ao dai is still worn at traditional festivals.

Source of Bibliography :

Ao Dai, Wikipedia : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i

Ao Dai The Traditional Costume of Vietnam Huong Thi Nguyen : https://globalstorybook.org/ao-dai-pride-vietnamese-culture/

All You Need to Know About Ao Dai Vietnam by Long Vu : https://luxurytravelvietnam.com/blog/ao-dai-vietnam.html

Ao Dai by Ann Marie Leshkowich : https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/clothing-types-styles/ao-dai

Ao Dai Exhibition at Saigon House 2nd floor, 77 Nguyen Hue, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam.