THE EYE NEEDS TO TRAVEL
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Christian Dior
Designer of Dreams Exhibition 2019
Produced by miRRa
Edited by Vince Dilley
It might be argued that most everyone has a basic desire to express themselves fashionably. To achieve that goal, a whole range of media outlets can be used to effect that desire...from music to painting, writing to building, and make up to hair style & clothing. In terms of fashion clothing specifically, every individual’s way of dressing reflects their character and personal style. As a devotee of fashion myself, I love all of the beauty and magnificence of such creations.
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One of the fashion designers that has had major influences in the fashion industry is Christian Dior…a French designer, best known as the founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, also called ‘Christian Dior’, now owned by Groupe Arnault… where all his creations are well known throughout the world. I particularly remember one of my favorites: a vintage photograph in the ‘Vogue’ fashion and lifestyle magazine, showing a lady wearing a ‘nipped waist and full skirted’ dress, which made it look so elegant. It is ‘the bar suit’ from the Dior’s 1947 Spring Collection. It also happened to be one of the most iconic dresses of that era.
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On a recent trip to UK, one my very first goals was to set eyes on the ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ exhibition, which was being displayed at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. As a side note, since leaving UK, the V&A extended the exhibition for another 7 weeks, such is the fascination and demand to see the Dior collection. There were to be many hundreds of garments from Dior’s Collections from 1947 to date, on show for the public to drool over and covet; the showcase was high on my bucket list to view and study, too. Incredibly, the show’s popularity resulted in a complete ticket sell-out for the five months it was there…almost before it started. An alternate idea was to be among the first hundred or so people who turned up to pay at the door on a first-come first served basis. Thinking that there would, potentially, be a lot of eager fellow Dior enthusiasts (given that the show was a sell-out) who really wanted to see the exhibition, I arrived at the V&A’s main entrance at 7 am for the door opening time of 10 am. I was actually first in the queuing line, which did surprise me, but as I told myself, if I was going to be amongst the first to get one of these ‘first-serve’ tickets and finally yes, I’ve got ticket and the eye starts to travel…
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Christian Dior Designer of Dreams
Victory & Albert Museum London
Christian Dior was born into a wealthy Normandy family in the French seaside town of Granville on 21st January1905. As a child he shared his mother love of gardens. His early passions included architecture and designing fancy dress costumes for his friends. Sent by his parents to study political science in Paris, Christian Dior gravitated towards a bohemian group of friends, including composer Henri Sauget & artist Christian Berard.
In 1928 he opened an art gallery, but the business foundered when the Christian Diorfamily fortune collapsed following the 1929 financial crisis. Forced to find a new way to make a living, Christian Dior took up fashion drawing, eventually working with top couturiers Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong. In 1946 Christian Diorfounded his own couture house with the backing of textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac. On 12thFebruary1947, The House of Dior launched its first collection. Dubbed the new look on fashion around the world. The House of Dior grew rapidly. By 1955 it accounted for over 50% of overseas exports of French haute couture.
In the prime of his career Christian Dior suddenly died on 24thOctober 1957. His legacy has continued under the creative directors who have succeeded him at the head of The House of Dior: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, Raf Simons, and Maria Grazia Chiuri.
The New Look
Victory & Albert Museum London
“I have never seen such a crowd at a dress show. Both showrooms were crowded and smart women were sitting all the way up the stairs, where they could only get a short glimpse of the mannequins as they passed.”
Betty Kenward, Tatler and Bystander, 1947.
Christian Dior unveiled his first haute couture collection on 12th February 1947. Amid excited anticipation within fashion circles. A stylish crowd gathered outside 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris, eager to witness the designer debut. Offering a radical alternative to the boxy, masculine style of women’s fashion after the Second World War, Dior’s designs caused a sensation. Carmel Snow, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar declared, “It’s quite a revolution dear Christian. Your dresses have such a new look!”
The term stuck. The New Look was adopted as the name for the collection and its two stand out silhouettes, Corolle and En 8. The Corolle shape featured full skirts echoing the petals, or corolla of flowers. En 8 was characterized by hip hugging pencil skirts. Both featured ample busts, nipped in waists, soft shoulders and shaped hips.
Inspired by the bar at the Hotel Plaza Athenee in Paris, the bar suit became the emblem of the New Look. Its exquisitely sculpted jacket and richly pleated full skirt epitomized the fashionable new silhouette. The creations of Christian Dior’s contemporaries and subsequent designers worldwide are a testament to the New Look lasting influence. Successive creative directors at the House of Dior have each reinterpreted the Bar suit in homage to the house’s founder.






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Historicism
Victory & Albert Museum
“I thanked heaven I lived in Paris in the last years of the belle époque.”
Christian Dior, 1957
Christian Dior often cited historic periods in his designs the sinuos lines of belle époque dress from the late 1800s the tightly-waisted, mid-19th century styles worn by the French Empress Eugenie. The sumptuous silks and dramatic silhouettes of the 18th century held a particular fascination. ChristianDior’s premises at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris had a neo classical façade, medallion backed chairs and white and grey paneling like that of the petit trianon at Versailles…a shade of grey Dior is said to have revived.
The couturier created this setting with his friend Victor Grand Pierre. The décor recalled Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville and The Louis XVI style of the family’s Parisian apartment. To display Dior perfumes Grand Pierre devised a stand based on the temple of love at Versailles built for Marie Antoinette in 1778. Christian Dior’s ground floor boutique of colifichets &trinkets decorated by Christian Berard ,was covered in toile de jouy…a fabric printed with pastoral scenes of gentle folk at play.
Numerous references to the 18th century can be found in the dresses created by Christian Dior and his successors. They draw on the lavish style of the court dress worn at Versailles and the décor and decorative arts of the period.





Dior in Britain
Victory & Albert Museum
“I adore the English, dressed not only in the tweeds which suit them so well, but also in those flowing dresses, in subtle colours which they have worn inimitably since the days of Gainsborough.”
Christian Dior 1957.
Christian Dior was a confirmed anglophile. From his first visit to Britain in 1926, he was charmed by the country in which “the past lies so vividly around”as a couturier he was delighted to dress English debutantes and the young Princess Margaret.
Following his first British fashion show at London Savoy Hotel in 1950, ChristianDior began showing his collections in grand country houses such as Blenheim Palace. Frequently held in aid of charity, the shows provided great publicity with crowds of guests eager to see the latest Christian Dior designs.
In 1952 Dior established C.D. Models. The London business provided ready to wear versions of his haute couture garments through exclusive department stores such as Harrods and Kendal Milne in Manchester. Renamed Christian Dior Ltd in 1954, the company established licensing deals with numerous British manufacturers such as Symington’s corsets and Dents gloves. Dior often used fabrics designed and made by British companies such as Ascher and the Cumberland Mills.
In 1961 Christian Dior London moved into imposing 18th century building on Conduit Street with a boutique on the ground floor. Marc Bohan was hired as the head of the London house before taking the reins at Dior in Paris. Successive directors included Guy Douvier, Philipe Guibourge and Frederic Castet. The final designer to be appointed was John Langberg who led the house from 1965-76. The London house was eventually brought back into the Paris fold.



1951 haute couture creation special: silk organza, straw, mother of pearl and sequins.
Dior designed this dress especially for the 21st birthday of Princess Margaret, the younger daughter of George VI. Embellished with golden straw embroidery, the dress was an adaptation of the matinee poetique design from his spring/summer 1951 haute couture collection.
Total Looks
Victory & Albert Museum
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Hats
Stephen Jones
Since the 1990s British milliner Stephen Jones has collaborated with 5 creative directors at Dior, recently reworking the classic beret for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s 2018 couture collection. Jones began designing hats for himself and his friends in the late 1970s while attending Saint Martins School of Arts. He opened his 1st shop in 1980 in Covent Garden. His mix of classic style with whimsical design and innovative materials has ensured his continued success. His clients ranged from Princess Diana to singer Rihanna and Meghan Duchess of Sussex.
Costume jewelry
From the delicate chokers of his first collection in 1947, Dior saw costume jewelry as a key element of the total look. Dior costume jewelry was often created as a parure with necklace and matching earrings, brooch or bracelet. Working internationally with companies such as Mitchel Maer (London), Henckel& Grosse (Pforzheim), and Scemama& Gripoix (Paris). Dior presented dramatic pieces often using strongly colour of crystals. In 1956 Swarovski developed the Aurora Borealis stone with Dior inspiring him to produce both costume jewelry and haute couture featuring the iridescent crystal.
Make up
In 1967 Serge Lutens became the 1st creative and image director for makeup at Dior. He launched Dior’s first complete make up line and in 1972 brought make up into museums with the exhibition makeup art Dior at New York’s Guggenheim Museum. His successor, photographer and make-up artist Tyen, launched classics such as Dior electric blue eyeshadow in 1984. Current creative and image director for make-up, Peter Philips joined Dior in 2014. A graduate of Art Schools in Brussels and Antwerp, Philips has established a reputation for creating a look of natural beauty and his playful use of colour.
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Roger Vivier
Roger Vivier 1903 – 98 studied sculpture at the Ecoledes Beaux Arts in Paris before taking up shoemaking. In the 1930s he began working with the prestigious American shoe company Delman. From 1953, Vivier designed shoes for Dior, made by Delman for the French and American markets and Rayne in Britain. Viviers name soon appeared alongside Dior’s own in marketing the footwear. He work with the house until 1963 when he established his own company in Paris.
Fashion illustration
Rene Gruau
By 18 Italian born Rene Gruau1909 – 2004 had published illustration in English, German and Italian fashion magazines. In Parisin the early 1930s he met Dior then also working as a fashion illustrator. They shared an interest in architecture and 18th century Europe, and in 1947 when Dior was launching his perfume Miss Dior he choose Gruau to illustrate the advertisements. It was the beginning of a long and productive relationship. Gruau continued to illustrate Dior garments and perfume advertisements until the late 1970s.
Fashion illustration
Mats Gustafson
Mats Gustafson b.1951 studied Stage Design in Stockholm before turning to fashion illustration. In New York, his signature use of watercolours, paper cutouts, and pastels featured in illustrations for women’swear in Vogue, Vanity Fair and the New Yorker. Gustafson began working with the House of Dior in 2012. His aesthetic complemented the clothing of creative director Raf Simons and he works with Dior to this day. He often looks to the Dior archive for inspiration, and has made illustrations of many Christian Dior’s original garment.


The Dior Ball
Victory & Albert Museum
“A ball gown is your dream and it must make you a dream”.
Christian Dior, 1954.
Christian Dior’s evening dresses and ball gowns draw on his love of historic costume. Throughout his life he loved designing clothes that would be worn at balls and fancy dress parties. Here he could indulge his imagination and showcase the diverse skills of the haute couture (high fashion/high sewing) ateliers (workshops)
His extravagant creations combined skillful draping, intricate embroidery and magnificent embellishment with the most luxurious of materials. Christian Dior enthused that evening clothes are the most glamorous and fascinating things a woman can have as the evening is the time when you escape from the realities of life. Just as his new look had proposed a break from war time austerity. Christian Dior’s evening gowns often took finery and excess to the extreme.
Successive creative directors at the house have continued Christian Dior’s enthusiasm for the fantastical and fairy tale. A Christian Dior gown, synonymous with allure and opulence, demonstrates the formidable talents and techniques of Parisian Haute Couture. It is no wonder that such striking creations have graced numerous red carpets as the choice of film starts and prominent personalities over the past seven decades.

Christian Dior by John Galliano b.1960
Haute couture special creation 1996
Silk (satin) & lace
This design was created for Diana, Princess of Wales 1996.
She wore it to a gala at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art to celebrate the 50th anniversary of The House of Dior.

Numero 63 dress
Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri b.1964
Haute couture Autumn/Winter 2018
Silk (tulle)
Actor Natalie Portman at a special screening of the film Vox Lux at the AFI (American Film Institute) fest 2018

Tourbillon Dress​
Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri b.1964
Haute couture Spring/summer 2018
Silk (organza) & crin
Actor Lupita Nyong attends The Cannes Film Festival May 2018

Look 41 Dress
Christian Dior by Raf Simons b.1968
Haute couture Spring/Summer 2013
Silk (organza) , beads & sequins
Actor Nicole Kidman
Attends The Cannes Film Festival May 2013

Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri b.1964
Haute couture special creation 1996
Silk (tulle, jersey)
Actor Jennifer Lawrence attends The New York film premiere of Mother! September 2017

Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri b.1964
Haute couture Special Creation 2017
Silk (taffeta)
Singer Rihanna attends The Canes Film Festival, May 2017
The Ateliers
Victory & Albert Museum
“Everything created by human hands expresses something- above all the personality of the creator. The same thing is true with dress. But since so many people are working on it, the real job is to get all the hands that cut, sew, try on and embroider to express all I have felt.”
Christian Dior, 1954
The Ateliers are the heart of Dior. It is in these workrooms that seamstress, or petite mains, turn ideas into exquisite haute couture garments. The tradition of haute couture demands that garments are almost entirely made by hand, using both traditional and modern techniques, often taking hundreds of hours to create.
When ChristianDior set up his house in 1946, he hired three formidable women to help him run the ateliers. Marguerite Carre oversaw the distribution of designs to the tailoring and dressmaking ateliers. Christian Dior muse, Mitzah Bricard, also managed the millinery workrooms and Raymond Ezehnacker was studio director, holding the reins of the business firmly in her grasp according to Dior. These women oversaw the process of turning designs into finished collections.
Once a design was selected it was taken to the ateliers to be turned into a toile. This prototype garment usually made in cotton fabric allowed for the fit construction and shape of the design to be checked. Once a toile was satisfactorily adjusted, fabric and embellishments were chosen and the garment could be made, fit to a model and shown.
Specialist work such as embroidery and beading was commissioned from artisans and craftspeople from the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris. Embroidery houses such as ‘Vermont’, and pleaters such as ‘Gerard Lognon’, worked to the specifications of Dior designs. These exacting process continue unchanged today.
An Enduring Reputation
Victory & Albert Museum
“He has left behind a name which will live as long as Paris leads the world of fashion- that is as he would have hoped forever.”
Oriel Malet, Tatler and Bystander, 1957



I was totally enchanted with all of the haute couture fashion outfits on display at this ‘Christian Dior Designer of Dreams’ exhibition. All the beautifully fabricated designs were made from the heart, with patients, love and meticulous attention to detail. Their originality and creativity is stunning, transcending even the most proficient in this field. Moreover, Dior’s designs are timelessly beautiful even to this day, and this is why J'ADORE DIOR! and many other people too.